August 8, 1786: the story of the first ascent of Mont Blanc!

On August 8, 1786, over 230 years ago, the first ascent of Mont Blanc took place, starting from Chamonix. Before this landmark date, which marked a significant event in the history of global mountaineering, the mountain inspired fear and was seen as a harbinger of death. What were the early attempts that preceded it? Who were the pioneers? What was the key to the success of the two men from Chamonix, Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard, who reached the summit? Let’s revisit the story of this glorious episode for Chamonix and the Mont Blanc massif.

The summit of Mont Blanc was first reached on August 8, 1786, by two men from Chamonix: Jacques Balmat, a chamois hunter and crystal collector, and Dr. Michel Gabriel Paccard.

For many centuries, the peak towering above what was then Chamouny was dubbed the 'cursed mountain.' At that time, the Mer de Glace, a glacier from its massif, still descended to the village, making it all the more feared. The fear of venturing into the mountains and never returning was ever-present.

However, despite the dread it instilled, it also attracted adventurers and scientists eager to uncover its mysteries. Among them was Michel Paccard, the valley doctor, who wished to measure Mont Blanc and prove it to be the highest peak in the Alps. Another was the Genevan Horace Bénédict de Saussure, who, upon visiting Chamouny in 1760 to collect herbs, was captivated by this majestic, yet untrodden mountain, and dreamed of reaching its summit. His obsession was so great that, despite the locals telling him it was impossible, he offered a substantial reward to the first person to reach the roof of the Alps and find a route he could subsequently use.

For over 20 years, motivated by the prize and the promise of achievement, numerous expeditions set out to discover a path to the summit. In July 1775, Michel Paccard joined one of these missions, reaching the Montagne de la Côte and then the famed glacier. However, at that time, spending the night outdoors was unthinkable, and by four in the afternoon, it was time to descend back to Chamonix, abandoning hopes of a successful ascent. In 1783, a group attempted the Grands Mulets route but also failed. In 1784, de Saussure and Marc Théodore Bourrit, both aspiring to be the first to complete the climb, formed a new expedition but were thwarted by the mountain’s unpredictable weather.

Two years later, in June, two teams of explorers decided to split up and take different routes to see which could climb the highest. One team set off on the Montagne de la Côte route, while the other took the Aiguille du Goûter path. Jacques Balmat, who also dreamed of reaching Mont Blanc’s summit, followed the group on the Côte route. As bad weather seemed to approach and darkness began to fall, all the adventurers descended back to Chamonix. However, Jacques Balmat lost sight of them and found himself trapped on the glacier for the night. The conditions were harsh and far from ideal, but they proved to him that he could survive up there.

When he finally returned to Chamonix, he called upon Dr. Michel Paccard to tend to his sick daughter. Paccard, having heard of Balmat’s participation in the latest expedition, was very interested in his experience. Paccard, who had studied the best route and optimal time for years, proposed that they attempt the ascent together. Balmat’s confirmation that they could survive a night outdoors without dying reinforced Paccard’s belief that the ascent couldn’t be completed in a single day.

So, they set out discreetly on August 7, 1786, after arranging for two people to observe the summit with a telescope on August 8. This was necessary to validate their success. They camped at the top of Montagne de la Côte, under a large rock that would later be known as "Balmat’s Shelter." The next day, the two men began the second phase of the ascent at 4:15 AM. It took them the entire day to reach the summit of Mont Blanc, at 4,810 meters, on August 8, 1786, at 6:23 PM.

After awarding the prize to Jacques Balmat, de Saussure himself climbed the roof of Europe in 1787, conducting numerous scientific experiments.

These two men from Chamonix, along with Horace Bénédict de Saussure, are now celebrated for the birth of mountaineering and the establishment of the profession of mountain guides.

In memory of the first ascent of Mont Blanc and the values it represents, our two founders chose the name 1786. As a travel and event agency in the Alps, they aimed to emulate Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard by showcasing their beloved region. Thus, they take you off the beaten path to experience unique adventures you won’t find anywhere else. These lands, which they love and know intimately, are their favorite playground, and the essence of 1786 is to help you discover them through the eyes of locals, experts in their destination.

To bring you closer to the summit of Mont Blanc and the history written by explorers and mountaineers, we have prepared some immersive and memorable activities! First, don’t miss our visit to the Aiguille du Midi for an extraordinary panorama of this iconic mountain. Likewise, trekking enthusiasts will be thrilled to tackle the legendary Tour du Mont-Blanc trail with a guide. Whether you prefer a hotel or a refuge, with or without luggage transport, we tailor your Tour du Mont-Blanc to your needs. We take you through the most beautiful stages of this great hiking trail at the foot of the roof of Europe, crossing France, Switzerland, and Italy! Finally, embark on a digital and original scavenger hunt in the streets of Chamonix, following in the footsteps of Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard in the race to Mont Blanc!

Our entire team is at your disposal to create your tailor-made stay in the Alps. Don’t hesitate to contact us! And discover all the services offered by Agence 1786.